In shortKedarnath is the Himalayan jyotirlinga in Uttarakhand, at about 3,583 metres near the head of the Mandakini valley. It is reached on foot or by other transport from Gaurikund, and is open only in the warmer part of the year. Check the official state and temple committee websites before travel.

Kedarnath lies in the Rudraprayag district of Uttarakhand, in the Garhwal Himalaya, at an altitude of roughly 3,583 metres, with snow peaks behind it and the Mandakini river below. Of the twelve jyotirlingas it is the northernmost, and it is also one of the four shrines of the Chota Char Dham. It is the most demanding of the twelve to reach, and this page is as much a travel guide as a devotional one.

Where it is

The road ends at Gaurikund. From there the temple is reached by a mountain path of roughly sixteen to eighteen kilometres, which people walk, ride on a pony or a palanquin, or cover in part by other services that change from year to year. The temple is a stone building in a wide valley, with a large Nandi in front. The linga itself is not a carved shape but a rough, rounded rock, which tradition links with the legend below.

The legend

The story belongs to the Mahabharata cycle, as the Shiva Purana and local tradition tell it. After the war at Kurukshetra, the Pandavas were troubled by the deaths of their kinsmen and went in search of Shiva for forgiveness. Shiva avoided them and took the form of a bull, hiding among the cattle of the Himalaya. The second Pandava, Bhima, recognised the bull and seized it by the hind quarters. The bull sank into the ground, and only its hump remained above, which is the rock worshipped at Kedarnath.

According to the tradition, the other parts of the bull appeared elsewhere in the hills: the arms at Tungnath, the face at Rudranath, the belly at Madhyamaheshwar and the matted hair at Kalpeshwar. Together with Kedarnath these are the five Kedars, the Panch Kedar, a circuit that devout trekkers still follow. A Nepali tradition says the head appeared in Kathmandu as Pashupatinath. These are sacred accounts handed down by the hill communities and are not offered as history.

The temple’s history

The tradition says the Pandavas built the first temple, and that Adi Shankara revived it in the eighth century. Historians cannot confirm the earliest layers, but written references show it was a recognised pilgrimage centre by about the twelfth century. Adi Shankara is also said, by tradition, to have ended his life in the mountains near here, and a memorial to him stands behind the temple.

The head priest, the Rawal, belongs to a Veerashaiva community from Karnataka, according to the long-standing custom. Local priests of the valley perform the daily rituals.

In June 2013 a catastrophic flood destroyed much of the town and the path, and hundreds of lives were lost. The temple survived, and a large boulder behind it is credited by people with deflecting the water. The area has since been rebuilt. Please read the state’s official advisories before planning, since conditions on the path vary with weather and landslides.

Planning the days

Sensible pilgrims allow a rest day at a lower town such as Guptkashi or Sonprayag to adjust to the height before the climb, and add a day in hand for weather. Rooms near the temple are limited and are best arranged through official channels. Carry a rain cover, a torch, a small first-aid kit, any regular medicines and some cash, as network coverage and card machines are unreliable in the valley. Leave early on the path so that you reach the temple in daylight, and descend before dark.

How to get there

  • Airport: Jolly Grant, near Dehradun, is the nearest airport, followed by a long road journey.
  • Railway: Rishikesh is the nearest railway station, and Haridwar and Dehradun are the larger junctions. From there roads run through the mountains to Gaurikund.
  • Final stage: the walk or ride from Gaurikund is part of the pilgrimage. Helicopter services also run from several places in the region. They are run by licensed operators and must be booked through official channels, so avoid unofficial offers.

The season

The temple is open only in the warmer months and is closed through the winter, when snow covers the valley. During that time the deity is worshipped at Ukhimath, where the festival image is taken in procession. We do not give opening or closing dates, because the committee announces them each year. The monsoon brings landslides and heavy rain, and the safer and more comfortable weeks are generally either side of it.

Etiquette and preparation

The altitude is high, and sudden weather changes are normal. Plan a slow pace, carry warm and waterproof clothing, drink water, and stop if you feel unwell. If you have a heart or lung condition, are elderly, or are pregnant, please talk to your doctor before going. Registration with the state authorities is generally required for pilgrims, and the rules change, so check the official site.

Inside the temple, dress modestly and keep to the queue. Do not litter on the path, and keep to the marked trail. The worship is simple: water and bel leaves, in the manner of the other jyotirlingas. The Rudrashtakam and the Mahamrityunjaya mantra are often chanted on the way.

Frequently asked questions

↳ Why is Kedarnath's linga a rock and not a carved shape?

The tradition says it is the hump of the bull form that Shiva took to hide from the Pandavas. It is treated as self-manifested.

↳ What are the Panch Kedar?

They are five Himalayan shrines (Kedarnath, Tungnath, Rudranath, Madhyamaheshwar and Kalpeshwar) that tradition says hold the parts of the bull. Kedarnath is the main one.

↳ How do I reach Kedarnath?

Fly to Jolly Grant or take a train to Rishikesh, then travel by road to Gaurikund, and walk, ride or use official services for the last stage. Check the official sites for the current arrangements.

↳ Where do I find the opening and closing dates?

On the websites of the temple committee and the Uttarakhand government. They are announced yearly, and they are not quoted here.

↳ Is Kedarnath suitable for older travellers?

It can be difficult, because of the altitude and the length of the path. Please consult your doctor first and plan extra days, as the right pace matters more than the date.

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