Where the Narmada river divides around a hill, in the Khandwa district of Madhya Pradesh, it leaves an island called Mandhata, or Shivapuri. From above, the island is often described as having the outline of the sacred syllable Om, and that is how the place got its name, Omkareshwar, “Lord of the Om”. It is the fourth entry in the traditional list of the twelve jyotirlingas, and one of the few that stands on a river island.
Where it is
There are two shrines in the tradition. Omkareshwar stands on the island, reached by a bridge or by a short boat ride across the Narmada. Mamleshwar, also written Amareshwar or Amaleshwar, is on the southern bank of the river. The Dvadasha Jyotirlinga hymn names them together as “Omkaram Amaleshwaram”, and devotees traditionally visit both, which is why you will see guides treat them as one pilgrimage.
The Narmada is among the rivers held sacred in the tradition, and the island is a place where many people circle the whole island on foot, a walk called the parikrama, along paths beside the water. A hymn to the river is on this site as the Narmada Ashtakam.
The legend
One account in the Puranas concerns the Vindhya mountain. The sage Narada once praised the great Mount Meru in front of Vindhya, and Vindhya, stung by the comparison, began to worship Shiva by making a linga of earth and sand. Shiva was pleased and granted Vindhya a boon: that he might grow in size. Shiva also appeared there as two forms, one called Omkara and the other called Parameshwara, and these are the two shrines.
A second story concerns King Mandhata of the Ikshvaku line, whose name the island bears. It says he performed severe austerity on this spot to please Shiva, and that the island is named after him. As ever, these are sacred narratives told in several versions. There is no need to reconcile them.
The temple’s history
Scholars generally date the main stone temple to the Paramara period, around the eleventh century, with later rebuilding. The structure has suffered damage over the centuries, and in the eighteenth century the Holkars of Indore, with the queens Gautama Bai and Ahilyabai Holkar among the patrons, supported repairs and additions. The temple is built in the Nagara style on several levels, and the sanctum is approached by steps and devotees speak of the linga as swayambhu, or self-manifested.
The island has a second claim to fame. Tradition says the young Shankara met his teacher Govindapada here, in a cave on the bank of the Narmada, before he went to Varanasi. In recent years a large statue of Adi Shankara, with a museum and a centre for Vedanta study, has been built on the hill. This is part of the modern development of the site, and the details are best checked on the official pages.
On the island
The parikrama path is about seven kilometres, and takes a few hours on foot with stops. Along the way are ghats, small shrines, and the Siddhanath and Gauri Somnath temples, and the view of the Narmada from the high bank is lovely at dusk. Boats cross to the island all day, and the river is wide and calm in the dry season. Take water, a hat and good sandals, and do not carry large bags on the steps. Local guides can explain the many small shrines, though you can also walk quietly by yourself.
How to get there
- Airport: Indore is the nearest airport, roughly two hours by road.
- Railway: Khandwa Junction and the Mhow station on the Indore line are the stations most often given, with a road transfer of one to two hours. Check the current train timetable before you choose.
- Road: buses and taxis run from Indore, Khandwa and Ujjain. Combining Ujjain and Omkareshwar in one trip is a common plan, since the two are a few hours apart.
The season
The Narmada is full and fast in the monsoon, and boat rides may be restricted when it is high. Winter is pleasant. The month of Kartik and the full Moon of Kartik are busy with bathing, and Maha Shivaratri and Shravan Mondays draw crowds. Dates for these appear on the festivals pages.
Etiquette
Take care on the river steps, which can be slippery, and follow the instructions of boatmen on safety jackets. Dress modestly in the temple, and keep your voice low in the sanctum. If you bathe in the Narmada, do so only where it is marked as safe, because the current is strong. Darshan arrangements, special puja and any fees are decided by the trust and are not given here. Please read them on the official website.
Offerings are usually water from the river, bel leaves and flowers. Many pilgrims chant Om Namah Shivaya as they walk the parikrama.
Related pages
- The twelve jyotirlingas
- Mahakaleshwar jyotirlinga, in nearby Ujjain
- Narmada Ashtakam
- Kashi Panchakam
- Maha Shivaratri puja
- Pilgrimage guides
Frequently asked questions
↳ Why is the island called Omkareshwar?
The island is described as shaped like the syllable Om, and the Shiva worshipped there is called the Lord of Om. The island is also called Mandhata, after the king who is said to have worshipped there.
↳ Are Omkareshwar and Mamleshwar one jyotirlinga or two?
The hymn names them together, and tradition treats the pair as one pilgrimage across the river. Some lists count the two as one jyotirlinga, and devotees usually visit both.
↳ What is the parikrama here?
It is the walk around the island along the Narmada, a devotional practice of circling a sacred place. Its length and route are set out locally, so ask at the temple office.
↳ What is the nearest airport?
Indore, about two hours away by road. The railway stations most often used are Khandwa Junction and Mhow.
↳ Is there a link between Omkareshwar and Adi Shankara?
Tradition says Shankara met his teacher Govindapada in a cave on the Narmada here. It is a devotional tradition, and historians cannot fix the details with certainty.