Ujjain, on the Shipra river in western Madhya Pradesh, is one of the seven sacred cities (Saptapuri) of the Hindu tradition and the place where a Kumbh Mela, called the Simhastha, is held. Its temple of Mahakaleshwar is the third name in the list of the twelve jyotirlingas and the one most people connect with time itself, since Mahakala means “great time” or “great death”.
Where it is
The temple stands in the old city, close to a small lake called Rudra Sagar, on a site that has been a centre of learning for centuries. Ujjain was also the old Indian reference point for time. Astronomers of the classical period treated its longitude as the prime meridian, and the city is linked with Varahamihira and with Vikramaditya, whose name gives its title to the Vikram Samvat era. This history of timekeeping is a fitting setting for a god of time.
The linga faces south. Almost every other Shiva shrine is oriented east or west, and in the tradition the south is the direction of Yama, lord of death, so this feature is cited as a reason to worship Mahakala here for freedom from the fear of death. The temple has an underground sanctum, and above it other shrines are arranged in storeys, including one that is opened only on a single day of the year.
The legend
The Shiva Purana tells of a pious Brahmin family in Avantika, the ancient name of Ujjain. The four sons of a householder named Vedapriya were devoted to Shiva, and the city was attacked by a demon called Dushana, who hated Vedic rites. The brothers prayed. Shiva appeared from a cleft in the earth as Mahakala, destroyed the demon with a roar, and then agreed to remain in the city for the protection of its devotees.
A second story concerns a young shepherd boy and King Chandrasena, a devotee of Shiva. A boy named Shrikhar saw the king worshipping, imitated him with a stone, and was driven away by neighbours, but Shiva accepted his devotion and a great temple rose where he had prayed. The two accounts differ, which is common for these shrines. The tradition does not ask you to choose.
The temple’s history
The shrine is old, and a temple is mentioned in works of the classical age, including the poetry of Kalidasa, who describes the evening worship at Mahakala in the Meghaduta. The historical record says the temple was destroyed by the Delhi sultan Iltutmish in 1234 or 1235, and the linga was not restored for a long time. The present building belongs to the eighteenth century, when the Maratha rulers of Malwa revived Ujjain. Ranoji Scindia’s minister Ramchandra Baba Shenvi is credited with raising the main temple, and further additions were made by the Scindia family and others.
In recent years a large corridor project, called Mahakal Lok, has changed the approaches to the temple, with new walkways and statues. Check the trust’s website for how it affects access today.
The bhasma aarti
The morning worship at Mahakaleshwar is famous for the bhasma aarti, in which the linga is anointed with sacred ash before dawn. Many pilgrims travel to Ujjain mainly to witness it. Because of the numbers, attendance generally requires advance registration through the temple administration, and the rules, including dress, change from time to time. We do not give them here. Please read the official website, and be cautious about private agents who offer to arrange a place.
Other places in Ujjain
Ujjain rewards a second day. Visitors usually walk down to Ram Ghat on the Shipra, and visit the Harsiddhi temple, one of the Shakti Peethas in some lists, the Kal Bhairav temple, where liquor is offered by tradition, and the Sandipani Ashram, linked with the boyhood schooling of Krishna. The Jantar Mantar observatory, built by Maharaja Jai Singh II in the early eighteenth century, is a reminder of the city’s role in astronomy, and fits well with a visit to this lord of time.
How to get there
- Airport: Indore is the nearest airport, about an hour or a little more by road, and is the usual choice. Ujjain has no regular airline service of its own.
- Railway: Ujjain Junction is on the main western lines and is a short ride from the temple.
- Road: Ujjain is connected to Indore and Bhopal by good highways, and buses are frequent.
The season
Ujjain is hot in summer, wet during the monsoon and pleasant in winter. The Shravan month, with its Monday processions, and Maha Shivaratri are the busiest times. Every twelve years the Simhastha Kumbh fills the city. The date of the festival in your city is on the Maha Shivaratri page.
Etiquette
Remove footwear before the temple, dress modestly, and follow the rules about what may be carried in. Queues can be long on special days, so go with patience. Offerings are usually water, bel leaves and flowers. Many devotees chant the Mahamrityunjaya mantra here, and the Shiva Tandava Stotram is also popular. Chanting is a devotion, and it is not offered as a guarantee of protection.
Related pages
- The twelve jyotirlingas
- Omkareshwar jyotirlinga, two to three hours away
- Pradosh vrat
- Shiva aarti
- Hindu calendar
- Pilgrimage guides
Frequently asked questions
↳ Why does the Mahakaleshwar linga face south?
The tradition says south is the direction of Yama, lord of death, so this orientation is read as a sign that Shiva as Mahakala governs time and death. It is a distinctive feature among the twelve.
↳ What is the bhasma aarti?
It is the pre-dawn worship in which the linga is anointed with sacred ash. Access normally needs registration with the temple administration, and the rules change, so please use the official website.
↳ Who rebuilt the temple after it was destroyed?
The record shows it was destroyed in 1234 or 1235. The present temple was raised in the eighteenth century under Maratha rule at Ujjain, with later additions.
↳ What is the nearest airport to Ujjain?
Indore, about an hour or a little more away by road. The nearest main railway station is Ujjain Junction.
↳ When is the Simhastha Kumbh held at Ujjain?
It recurs about every twelve years, when Jupiter is in Leo and other conditions are met. Please check an official announcement for the dates of the next one.